Tools needed: screw drivers, tweezers, needle nose pliers.
Fed-2 body front
There are three screws to remove across the top. Middle screw is shorter, it
covers the horizontal rf infinity adjustment. If you have one, remove the
self-timer lever and the spacer underneath. Remove the decorative ring
around the rf window. Best tool for this is a flexiclamp wrench available
from Micro-Tools. Remove the small lens assembly that is revealed when the
decorative ring is removed, it may be hard to remove. Only use the outer two
slots, the inner slots are for the vertical adjusting of the rf spot.
Fed 2 body back
To remove the rewind knob, fig 5, pull it up and remove the screw in the
collar, remove the knob, collar and the fork. Set the speed knob to 'B' and
loosen the two set screws to remove it. Rewind release: loosen the set screw
and unscrew it from the shutter release. Advance knob, wind the advance knob
to the shutter is ready to fire, loosen the set screw, unscrew the knob, the
parts are shown in fig 3. Remove the cold shoe. There is one screw holding
the top underneath the advance knob. Remove the viewfinder eye piece. You
can now remove the top. Lift up on the right side, the diopter lever is
holding the right side on, so slide the top off to the left.
The advance knob
a-Advance Knob b-spring washers c-film counter d-two large thin washers
e-spacer f-two small thin washers
Rear view with some of the knobs removed
a-speed selector b-shutter button/rewind release c-film advance d-film
The film rewind knob assembly
a-rf adjusting cover screw b-front of top screws c-top screw under the
On the right is the cold shoe with it's screws
The top of the Fed 2, rear view
a-diopter adjuster b-speed selector c-pawl d-flash contact assembly
e-shutter release/rewind release
f-film advance knob mount g-screws holding shutter crate h-screws holding
top shutter shield
Inside the top of the Fed-2, shutter has been fired. If the shutter is
working, now would be a good time to work the advance and shutter to see how
it all works. Just screw the advance knob back on to be able to do it. Watch
what the tangs and the pawl do at the speed selector. The speed selector
lever is attached to the first curtain, the tang underneath is the second
curtain. The first curtain to be the first one to move when the shutter is
Close ups of the speed selector area, right one is a better view of the
Diopter adjuster spring, the hook goes onto the lever, the long end pushes
the lens to the back of the camera
The shutter pawl, it holds the second curtain from releasing until the speed
lever hits it or the shutter button is released
Shutter speed assembly.
Put a small rod or screwdriver into the hole and unscrew the cap.
Speed lever parts, don't loose that spring!
Exposure disc, it has the notches for the shutter speeds.
Remove the screw, and pull up on the disc. It may be tight
Exposure disc and mounting screw
View with speed lever, pawl and exposure disc removed
Full view of the top
Front without the top, the lens mount does not need to be removed.
Remove the self-timer lever, if you haven't. Remove the four chrome screws
in the vulcanite.
Tension adjustments: a-second curtain b-first curtain
Remove the little screws holding the funny nuts. Remove the two screws
holding the shutter button spring, slide it over to unhook from the shutter
release gear. The funny nuts are best removed after the shutter crate is
removed, these are LEFT-hand threads. To remove, use a screwdriver in the
slots, rotate the screw counter-clockwise to loosen, and then remove the
Lower shutter shield position. The small piece with the screws also hold the
shutter button spring. Use a small screw driver to help line up the holes.
Bottom of shutter crate
a-restrictive gear cover b-self-timer pin c-shutter release d-pawl
Turn camera right side up and catch the self-timer pin. Remove the cover for
the restrictor gear, but don't remove the gear.
The self-timer pin
Shutter release spring and it's screws
Lower shutter shield and it's holder
Self-timer with lever removed
Self-timer lever, screw and spacer-adapter
The camera body with the shutter crate removed
To remove the crate, see fig 8, remove the two screws (g) points to.
Position the camera as above, lift the bottom slightly and slide it out of
the body. Watch for the gear in fig 28, it may come out with the assembly.
The shutter release and cocking gear. This must move freely and yes that is
lint hanging off of it.
Shutter coupling pin, the underside of the speed selector.
Shutter curtains in crate, front view
Shutter curtains in crate, top view
Shutter crate, the gear on the bottom left is the restrictor gear.
The dark assembly on the left is the self-timer gear box. Don't take this
apart, it's not at all easy to get back together.
Shutter curtain assembly, the curtains and the tapes are glued on.
a-drum b-first curtain c-second curtain
Shutter curtain assembly showing the rollers for the second curtain
First curtain removed from the tension roller. Just peel it off. Also, mark
the starting point of the material on the roller.
Close up of the lath of the first curtain
Opening the lath to remove the curtain. The tabs on each end need to be
pried up to be able to spread open the lath
Using a small screwdriver to spread open the lath to remove the curtain. The
curtain is glued into the lath.
Be careful not to damage the other curtain or the shutter tapes, or stab
yourself with the screwdriver.
Curtain removed from the lath.
The tension roller all nice and clean. I used some carburetor cleaner to
remove the old glue and rubber. After it's dry, put some shutter oil on the
ends and work it in.
Note: One of the caps on the end is threaded, make sure it tightened down.
After I cleaned it, I found it had loosened up.
The old curtain and the new curtain material. Cut the new piece the same
size as the old one. The screwdriver is just holding the old one flat
New shutter curtain all cut and trimmed for installation.
Spread open the lath enough so that you can put in the new one, with a
screwdriver and clean out the old glue. Be careful, it bends very easily.
All glued up and ready to be reinstalled. Use some glue in the lath, insert
the curtain, centered and straight, with no wrinkles. Using pliers,
carefully squeeze the lath, locking in the curtain. Wait for the glue to
dry. On the roller, cover it with glue and roll the curtain onto it,
starting at the marks you made earlier. Make sure the notched end is at the
bottom. I used a generic all purpose adhesive for the glue, another glue to
use is Pliobond.
Curtain assembly before gluing on the roller
Top of the roller
Bottom of the roller. The notch is to let you adjust the tension, the
threads hold the funny nut.
Top of shutter drum
a-notch in first curtain drum b-first curtain drum
The pin in the picture on the right goes into the hole (a) and it shows the
hole on the correct side of (b) If you get it wrong, you can't wind
both curtains. Don't worry, it'll take a few tries putting in the shutter
crate to get everything lined up and timed correctly. Also, you have to line
up the restrictor gear to let the shutter to wind and release. This gear has
limits the travel of the shutter. If it is off by 180 degrees, the shutter
will not wind or release.
The tang at (a) needs to be in this position to allow proper shutter
operation. Adjustment of the restrictor gear a tooth at a time will move
this into the correct position. Cock the shutter, reach inside, hold both
parts of the drum, remove the screw holding the restrictor gear, move it one
tooth in the direction needed, and reassemble. If you put in the gear wrong,
nothing can move. Wind and fire the shutter to see how it all moves.
a-first curtain tension adjust, b is for the second curtain, c is the
restrictor gear cover, d-is the shutter release spring
Self-timer side view
Self-timer rear view. The assembly at the right pushes on a pin, which
pushes the shutter release spring and fires the shutter.
If your self-timer winds down before firing position, just wind the part the
lever mounts on another 180 degrees. Make sure the tabbed washer is in the
position shown, to be able to shove that long flat lever over to stop the
A view of the gears, the weighted bar on the right is the part that makes
the buzzing noise.
It works similar to a watch mechanism.
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ęStephen Castello All Rights Reserved
Last Update: 12/14/2004