I have not disassembled the mechanism.
To get to the advance mechanism: remove
advance knob, and the screw underneath. Inside the body, on the left
side, remove the one screw (if you remove the spool pin, it's easier).
The top will now come off. Watch for the shaft that
opens the front, it sits loose in a hole.
going to see how it works, put the advance knob back on, otherwise the
gear under the knob will move out of place.
The back pushes
on a pin, which moves a set of levers to allow the film counter to
count up. Without taking mine apart, it appears to activate a one-way
clutch underneath the stack. If the spiked gear is pushed down too far,
it won't turn. The long spring on the left pulls on the counter
wheel. The spiked gear connects to the counter wheel via a
reduction gear. The lever it ends at is made of two
parts. One thin wrap around piece to hold the shaft end and
also to act as the zero stop for the counter. The other to
for the spring and over to the lever the back pushes down. It
appears the thin part that holds the shaft end can be moved to adjust
how far the spiked wheel needs to be depressed before it engages the
large gear. On mine it appears to be soldered in place.
the film arrives at the spiked gear, it get pushed down to the
gear and it starts moving the film counter. The film counter has two
plates with slots. Bottom slotted plate is spring loaded, it's the
first one to catch the locking tab. The top slotted plate is then
caught by the tab, the advance knob is now locked.On mine most of the
screws were loose. On mine the front one that the locking tab pivots
on, can't be fully tightened. Advance knob gear: top teeth are for the
one way turning. Bottom gear is the part the locking tab uses to lock
the advance knob.
Advance knob gear: top teeth are for the one way
turning. Bottom gear
is the part the locking tab uses to lock the advance knob.
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Last Update: 12/16/2004